It was Christmas 2020 – lockdown year. The country had just a 24-hour window to visit family or escape the four walls. I chose the latter. I fired up the campervan and headed straight for Dartmoor – the wild, rugged moorland I knew from childhood days in Devon.
This time, though, I aimed north. I’d never explored the North Moors before, but a quick glance at the OS map pointed me to Belstone – a tiny hamlet just outside Okehampton that looked like the perfect launch pad for a proper soul-resetting walk.
What followed was a windswept, peaceful ramble across some of Dartmoor’s most untouched landscapes – and I’ve returned more than once since. If you're after real walking routes and proper camper-friendly spots around Belstone, this guide is for you.
Belstone Village: Small, Friendly, and a Proper Hiking Base
Belstone is the kind of village that doesn’t try to impress, and that’s exactly why it does. It’s perched right at the edge of the northern moor, making it one of the best jumping-off points for real Dartmoor walks. No gimmicks, no coach tours – just a green, a handful of stone cottages, and a quiet vibe that tells you people here are more into walking than showing off.
You’ll pass a restored old Telegraph Office, a weathered phone box, and lanes where the loudest thing is likely to be a pair of boots clumping past. Most mornings, you’ll spot hikers setting off early with packs and gaiters, heading straight for the hills. That’s your sign – you’re in proper walking country.
Parking fills up fast on sunny days. If you want a spot, get in before mid-morning or walk up from Okehampton station. At the end of the day, there’s a decent pub and proper views – no touristy nonsense. This is the real Dartmoor for people who actually want to walk, not pose for a photo.
The Best Walks Starting from Belstone
The Classic Circular – 5.5 Miles of Proper Moor
If you’re new to Belstone walks, start with the circular route. It’s about 5.5 miles, with a bit of everything: moor, tors, stone circles, tricky fords, and a good excuse to stop for a snack and brew with a view.
Route highlights:
- Leave Belstone on clear paths, then up onto higher moor.
- Irish Man’s Wall – an eccentric stone wall with plenty of history and better stories.
- Cross the Taw ford – can flood after rain, so don’t be a hero if it’s running high.
- Detour to the Nine Maidens Stone Circle. Take a minute here – close your eyes, you’ll feel the old magic.
- Climb up Winter Tor (steep, but worth it), and from there, spot Cosdon Beacon far off.
- Expect boggy sections. Trust me, cheap “waterproof” boots are a mistake you’ll only make once.
Allow four hours. You’ll get classic Dartmoor views, raw weather, and maybe a glimpse of wild ponies. Bring a map and proper compass skills – the mist comes in fast, and phone signals aren’t guaranteed.
The Tor Chain Route
This one’s for anyone who enjoys a bit of boulder hopping and panoramic views. From Belstone, aim for Tors End Tor, up through belting stretches of heather, granite, and wind-whipped grass. Continue along the ridgeline – Belstone Tor, through clitter fields and past the remains of Irish Man’s Wall, towards Higher Tor and Cullever Steps.
It’s moderate but can feel challenging if you’re carrying full kit. The wind will test your layering. My advice? Pack a windproof shell – you’ll thank me at the summit. You can extend or cut the walk short, which is handy if Dartmoor’s famous sideways rain appears.
Okehampton Station to Belstone – Woods then Wild Moor
If you want to arrive by train, start at Okehampton station and wind your way through East Okement Valley. The first stretch is woodland and streams – a nice, sheltered warmup before you break out onto open moor. From there, join the main Belstone routes or loop back around for a solid six to seven-mile round trip.
Pro tip: this is a good one for beginners. You get everything including wood, river, and tors without biting off more than you can chew.
Dartmoor’s Must-See Spots Near Belstone
1. Nine Maidens Stone Circle
You’ll hear all sorts of ghost stories and legends about these stones. The best one? They were girls punished for dancing on a Sunday, or possibly seventeen brothers – it doesn’t really matter. It’s quiet, remote, and atmospheric. Respect the circle; don’t climb on the stones.
2. Irish Man’s Wall
No one’s exactly sure who built this odd wall or why, but it snakes for nearly a mile and crosses wild terrain. It’s a unique feature for the route and a good navigation check if you’re losing the path.
3. Belstone Tor
The real highlight – over 470 metres up. On a clear day, you’ll see for miles, all the way to the north Devon coast. The climb is steep, the winds can be savage, but the views and sense of achievement make the slog worth every breath. I once watched a thunderstorm roll towards me from here – lesson learned, always check the forecast.
Dartmoor Campsites Near Belstone
Dartmoor isn’t teeming with holiday parks. Around Belstone, you want simple, back-to-nature sites – not luxury glamping.
There are a couple of official campsites:
- The Old Rectory Camping & Caravan Site, Tavistock – Check out their website for details.
- East Okement Farm – Basic facilities, tent pitches, great for setting off early on the moor.
- Okehampton Youth Hostel – A bit further out, but with cheaper camping plots behind the main building.
Wild camping is a Dartmoor tradition, but only allowed in certain areas. Always check the Dartmoor camping map before pitching. Do not camp on Belstone village green, in sight of houses, or on farmed land. That’s the fastest way to fall out with locals and spoil it for everyone.
There Are Rules Guiding Wild Camping on Dartmoor
Wild camping sounds romantic, but Dartmoor has strict rules. Only “backpackers” – not car campers – are welcome. You must pitch late, leave early, use a small tent, and never light open fires. Stay out of enclosed fields and respect the sheep, ponies, and cattle that graze the moor.
I once saw a group leave trash near the stream at Taw Plain. The local farmer was fuming – and rightly so. The golden rule? Leave no trace and act invisible.
What to Pack: Gear List for Surviving Dartmoor
You don’t need the latest kit, but cut corners and you’ll regret it when the rain starts sideways.
- Tent: Lightweight, low-profile, with a solid flysheet and proper pegs (Dartmoor soils range from soft peat to boulder-hard).
- Sleeping bag: Go warmer than you think. A 3-season bag and an insulated mat are the bare minimum. I froze one April when my “summer” bag didn’t quite cut it.
- Waterproofs: Always pack a shell jacket and overtrousers, even in July. The weather turns fast.
- Footwear: Sturdy boots with ankle support. Dartmoor mud eats trail shoes for breakfast.
- Navigation: OS Map (OL28) and a good compass. Phones fail, batteries run out, and signal is patchy. Real talk: It’s easy to get disorientated in fog.
- Headtorch: Carry spares – mists come in, and you won’t see your boots at your feet after dusk.
- Cook kit: Small gas stove, lighter, and utensils. Open fires are banned.
- Clothing: Layer up. Base layer, warm mid, waterproof shell. Add gloves and hat, even in summer.
- Other: Powerbank, first aid kit (always carry a blister pack), whistle, and food for one meal more than you think you’ll need.
Water and Weather: Stay Dry and Stay Safe
On Dartmoor, water isn’t your enemy – it’s everywhere, but you can’t just drink it. All moorland streams look clean; many carry giardia or agricultural runoff. Always purify with a filter or boil water for a couple of minutes. Don’t risk it – I spent three days regretting not filtering my water when the stomach cramps hit.
Weather on Dartmoor is chaos. The sun can split the stones at breakfast and fog you in by lunch. Always check the forecast before you go. Tell someone your planned route. If you hear thunder, get off the higher tors quickly. Lightning loves a granite summit.
Pay attention to river crossings: some fords turn lethal after rain. If in doubt, wait or turn back. Wet feet are a pain; a swim is worse.
When’s the Best Time for Belstone Walks and Camping?
If you want the sweet spot for walking and camping in Belstone, go in spring – April to June. The days are longer, the hills are quieter, and bluebells scatter the lower paths like something out of a postcard. Summer brings those golden sunsets and fields full of wildflowers, but you’ll be sharing the moor with more people (and the midges know it too).
Autumn? That’s the magic season. Fewer boots on the trails, golden tones across the grass, and misty mornings that make every walk feel a bit otherworldly. Just pack an extra layer – it gets cold fast once the sun dips.
Winter’s a different beast. If you’re not already confident with moorland navigation and full winter kit, give it a miss. The days are short, the bogs are wetter, and it’s easy to get caught out.
And no matter the season, avoid Dartmoor if the forecast looks grim. Storms and sideways rain aren’t just annoying; they can be dangerous up here. Wild camping? Save it for a fair-weather window, especially if you’re new to it. The moor will still be there next week.
Dartmoor Safety and Respect: Leave No Trace
Belstone and Dartmoor give you freedom – but take care. Always check river levels before crossing. In mist, stick to compass bearings and avoid shortcuts. Tell someone your plan.
Never light an open fire – use stoves only. Bury toilet waste well away from streams, or better still, pack it out. Don’t leave food scraps or rubbish. If you find litter, pick it up—you’ll earn some camping karma.
Respect other wild campers and locals. Never pitch in fields or in view of houses. If a farmer tells you to move, pack up and go. It’s their land, after all.
I once woke up to a herd of ponies outside my tent, chewing right next to my sleeping bag. They’re lovely, but they’ll take your sandwiches if you leave them out.
Belstone and Dartmoor Will Always Be a Camper’s Favourite
If you want moorland that feels wild, but rewarding, Belstone is your perfect starting point. There’s always something new – a sudden hailstorm, ponies in the mist, a sunset you’ll never forget.
The walks challenge you, the campsites are simple, and the memories last. Pack your kit, respect the moor, and you’ll find the best kind of adventure here.
Pick your camp wisely. Respect the rules. And when you’re freezing at 2am, think of the warm pub at the finish. Dartmoor rewards those who are prepared, and gives lasting stories to anyone who braves its wild side. If you’re serious about camping, Dartmoor waits. Don’t let it down.
